MODLIT  Physical and numerical modelling of sandy beach morphodynamics

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Articles

Berni, C., Mignot, E., Michallet, H., Dalla-Costa, C., Grasso, F. & Lagauzère, M. 2009. Diversity of bed evolution at wave and tidal scales on Truc-Vert beach. J. of Coast. Res.,  SI 56, 1726 – 1730.

Bertin X., Castelle B., Anfuso G., Ferreira O. 2008a Improvement of sand activation depth prediction under conditions of oblique wave breaking, Geo-Marine Letters, 28, 65-75.

Bertin, X., Castelle, B., Chaumillon, E., Butel, R., Quique, R. 2008b. Longshore transport estimation and inter-annual variability at a high-energy dissipative beach : St. Trojan Beach, SW Oléron Island, France. Continental Shelf Research, 28, 1316-1332.

Bonneton, P. 2007 Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone. Ocean Engineering, 34, 1459-1471.

Bonneton, P., Bruneau, N., Marche, F. and Castelle, B. 2009 Large-scale vorticity generation due to dissipating waves in the surf zone. accepted to DCDS-S.

Bruneau, N.; Bonneton, P.; Pedreros, R.; Dumas, F. and Idier, D. 2007 A New Morphodynamical Modeling Platform: Application to Characteristic Sandy systems of the Aquitanian Coast, France. J. of Coast. Res., SI 50, 932-936.

Bruneau, N., Castelle, B., Bonneton, P., Pedreros, R., Almar, R., Bonneton, N., Bretel, P., Parisot, J-P. and Sénéchal, N. 2009bAn Field observations of an evolving rip current on a meso-macrotidal well-developed inner bar and rip morphology. Continental Shelf Res., 29, 1650-1662.

Bruneau, N., Castelle, B., Bonneton, P. and Pedreros, R  2009a Very Low Frequency motions of a rip current system: observations and modeling. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 56, 1731-1735.

Castelle, B., Bonneton, P., Dupuis, H. and Sénéchal, N. 2007a Double bar beach dynamics on the high-energy meso-macrotidal French Aquitanian coast: a review. Marine Geology, 245(1-4), 141-159.

Castelle B., Turner I.L., Ruessink B.G., Tomlinson R.B. 2007b Impact of storms on beach erosion : Broadbeach (Gold Coast, Australia), Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50, 534-539.

Castelle B., Le Corre Y., Tomlinson R.B. 2008a Can the Gold Coast beaches withstand extreme events?, Geo-Marine Letters  28, 23-30,  doi:10.1007/s00367-007-0086-y.

Castelle, B. 2009 Dynamique des littoraux sableux dominés par l’action de la houle : les apports de la modélisation et de l’imagerie vidéo. La Houille Blanche, 1, 64-70.

Castelle, B., Ruessink, B.G., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V., Bruneau, N., Price, T.D. 2009b Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems, Part 1: Physical explanation and coupling patterns.  Earth Surface Processes and Landforms. In press.

Castelle, B., Ruessink, B.G., Bonneton, P., Marieu, V., Bruneau, N., Price, T.D. 2009c Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems, Part 2: impact on alongshore variability of inner-bar rip channels. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms. In press.

Castelle, B., Grasso, F., Marieu, V., Bonneton, P., Bruneau, N. 2009d Développement d’un nouveau modèle d’évolution de profil de plage. La Houille Blanche, in press.

Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E. and Bonneton, P. 2007 A fourth-order compact finite volume scheme for fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq-type equations. Part II: Boundary conditions and model validation. Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids, 53 (9), 1423-1455.

Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E. and Bonneton, P.  2009 A wave-breaking model for Boussinesq-type equations including mass-induced effects,  J. Waterway, Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering, in press.

Emmanuel, I., J.P. Parisot, H. Michallet, E. Barthélemy & N. Sénéchal 2009. Sediment transport particular events and beach profile response, J. of Coast. Res.,  SI 56, 1766-1770.

Garnier, R., Bonneton, P., Falqués, A. et Calvete, D. 2008 Modelling the formation and the nonlinear evolution of crescentic bars of the Aquitanian coast, La Houille Blanche, 3, 33-38.

Grasso, F., H. Michallet, E. Barthelemy, & R. Certain 2009a, Physical modeling of intermediate cross-shore beach morphology: transients and equilibrium states, J. Geophys. Res., in press.

Grasso, F., Michallet, H., Certain, R. & Barthélemy, E. 2009b. Experimental flume simulation of sandbar dynamics. J. of Coast. Res., SI 56, 54-58.

Govender, K., H. Michallet, M.J. Alport, U. Pillay, G.P. Mocke, & M. Mory 2009. Video DCIV measurements of mass and momentum fluxes and kinetic energies in laboratory waves breaking over a bar, Coastal Engineering, 56 (8), 876-885.

Hurther, D., Michallet, H. & Gondran, X. 2007. Turbulent measurements in the surf zone suspension. J. Coastal Res., SI 50, 297-301.

Lannes D., Bonneton P. 2009 Derivation of asymptotic two-dimensional time-dependent equations for surface water wave propagation, Physics of Fluids, 21 (1), 016601 (9 pages), DOI: 10.1063/1.3053183.

Marche, F., Bonneton, P., Fabrie, P. and Seguin, N.  2007 Evaluation of  well-balanced bore-capturing schemes for 2D wetting and drying processes. Int. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids, 53 (5), 867-894.

Marieu, V., Bonneton, P., Foster, D. L. and Ardhuin, F. 2008 Modeling of vortex ripple morphodynamics.  J. Geophys. Res, 113, C09007.

Michallet, H., Grasso, F. & Barthélemy, E. 2007. Long waves and beach profiles evolutions. J. Coastal Res. , SI 50, 221-225.

Michallet, H., M. Mory, & I. Piedra-Cueva 2009, Wave-induced pore pressure measurements near a coastal structure, J. Geophys. Res., 114, C06019.

Mory, M., Michallet, H., Bonjean, D., Piedra-Cueva, I., Barnoud, J.-M., Foray, P., Abadie, S. & Breul P. (2007) A field study of momentary liquefaction caused by waves around a coastal structure. ASCE J. Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering. 133(1), 28-38.

Roelvink, D., Ad Reniers, Ap van Dongeren, Jaap van Thiel de Vries, Robert McCall, Jamie Lescinski 2009 Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands Coastal Engineering, In Press, Corrected Proof, Available online 15 September 2009.

Proceedings

Almar, R., Bonneton, P., Senechal, N., Roelvink, J.A. 2008a Wave celerity from video imaging: A new method, Proc. 31st Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., Vol. 1, 661-673.

Almar, R., Castelle, B., Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P. 2008b Video observation of a rapid post-storm accretionnary beach state transition on the Aquitanian Coast. Proc. 11^ème International Symposium on Oceanography of Bay of Biscay, 2-4 Avril, Espagne.

Bruneau, N., Bonneton, P., Castelle, B., Pedreros, R., Parisot, J-P.and  Sénéchal, N. 2008b Modeling of the dynamics of a high energy rip current system during Biscarosse 2007 field experiment (Aquitanian Coast, France). Proc. 31st Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., Vol. 1, 901-913.

Castelle, B., Almar, R., Bonneton, N., Bonneton, P., Bretel, P., Bujan, S., Bruneau, N., Parisot, J.-P., Pedreros, R., Sénéchal, N. 2008b Dynamics of a moderate-energy rip current over a Transverse Bar and Rip morphology : Biscarrosse 2007 field experiment (Aquitanian Coast, France). Proc. 11^ème International Symposium on Oceanography of Bay of Biscay, 2-4 Avril, Espagne.

Castelle, B., Ruessink, G., Bonneton, P., Bruneau, N., Marieu, V. 2008c Modeling of coupled and noncoupled behavior of a double sandbar system: self-organization and morphological coupling, Proc. 31st Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng., Vol. 3, 2003-2014.

Castelle, B., Grasso, F., Marieu, V., Bonneton, P., Bruneau, N. 2008d Développement d’un nouveau modèle d’évolution de profil de plage. Proc. Journées Nationales de Génie Côtier – Génie Civil, Vol. 2, 49-58.

Castelle, B., Michallet, H., Marieu, V., Leckler, F., Dubardier, B., Lambert, A., Berni, C., Barthélemy, E., Bouchette, F., Bonneton, P., Kimmoun, O., Sous, D., Almar, R. 2009a A large-scale laboratory experiment of rip current circulations over a moveable bed : drifter measurements. Proc. Coastal Sediment ’09, Sept 7-11, Japan, in press, 14p. 

David de Drézigué, O., Sous, D, Lambert, A., Gouaud, F., Rey, V. 2008 Watertable response to the tidal forcing in the Truc-Vert sandy beach, J. of Coast. Res.,  SI 56.

Grasso, F., Michallet, H., Barthélemy, E. 2007 Infragravity waves in modile-bed laboratory experiments. In Coastal Sediment 07, ASCE, New Orleans, Louisianna, USA.

Grasso, F., Barthélemy, E., Certain, R., Michallet, H. 2008 Etudes expérimentales des profils cross-shore de plages sableuses. Proc. Journées Nationales de Génie Côtier – Génie Civil, Vol. 2, 91-100.

Grasso, F., Michallet, H., & Barthélemy, E. 2009c. Experimental flume simulation of shoreface nourishments for storm events: Beach morphology, hydrodynamics ans sedimentology. Proc. Coastal Sediment ’09, Sept 7-11, Japan, in press.

Govender, K., H. Michallet, M.J. Alport, G.P. Mocke, & M. Mory 2009. DCIV derived flow fields for waves breaking over a bar. Proc. Coastal Sediment ’09, Sept 7-11, Japan, in press.